Join Bernard Stanley's
fictional characters as they move around the factual
beauty spots of Ulster's rugged Causeway Coast.
This story won a tourism short
story competition
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"Smell it! Breathe it!" The three of us inhaled
deeply.
A rush of cold, fresh air coursed through my lungs. It
held a salty tang that seemed to penetrate every pore in
my body. I breathed out and expelled ten years of city
pollution.
A cool Atlantic breeze brushed over our skin, gently
protecting us from the heat of a June sun. We stood for
ages soaking up the purity of the air and the beauty that
is the Giants Causeway, unofficially voted the eighth
wonder of the world.
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Surrounding us was a vast
panorama of perpendicular stone columns of various
heights. These four, five and even nine sided magnificent
pillars were all stretching upwards towards the heavens.
I looked up at Dave. He was standing on one of the higher
slabs absorbing the amazing view. "Fantastic!"
he exclaimed. "How many do you think there
are?"
"Forty thousand at the last count," replied
Teresa, gingerly picking her way over the slippery
stones. "And wait until you see this..." |
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We made our way over the
surreal stonework, so smooth and regular, it was
difficult to believe that it was a natural creation and
not man-made. |
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"Look!"
Teresa pointed ahead. We stopped and gazed in wonder at
the astonishing rock formation. It looked just like the
pipes of a gigantic grand organ that had been etched into
the side of the mountain by some magical stonemason at
the beginning of time.
"Finn MacCool," Teresa said. Dave looked at
her.
"Hes Ulsters friendly giant," I
explained. "Tradition has it that he started to
build this causeway to take him over to Scotland as he
wanted to fight the evil Scottish giant."
"And he also made the organ for Ossian, his son to
play," Teresa added. |
Dave laughed heartily.
"You two have still got a bit of the blarney in
you."
"Maybe," I replied, teasing him. "But they
say that on a peaceful day, and a calm sea, you can still
hear the music of Ossian drifting around the Causeway. Listen!" |
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We stood silent. The
distant roar of the ocean was a background to the
lapping and splashing of the water as it created
a foaming pathway around the rocks. A noisy flock
of seagulls glided in with the waves, their
mournful cries echoing around the pillars. And
sure enough, an eerie, distant sound of music
reached our ears.
A look of amazement flooded over Daves
face. |
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Teresa
burst out laughing and he suddenly
realised that the music was nothing more
mythical than a country song playing from
a near-by couples radio.
"Anyway," I said, as we made
our way back to the car, "Id
rather believe that Finn MacCool built
the Causeway and not a boring old
volcano." |
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BUSHMILLS
DISTILLERY
Co. Antrim
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The fresh, bracing air had
whetted our appetite and we stopped for a meal at
Bushmills, a lovely little village and home of my
favourite whiskey. While we waited for our food, I
ordered a few drams of the Bush for Dave and
myself. Teresa had been elected car driver for the day so
she had a coke. |
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Dave had his first taste of
Bushmills whiskey. He took a sip and nodded in approval.
"How could you two possibly leave this beautiful
area to live in London?" Teresa and I shook our
heads. We had asked ourselves the same question a hundred
times over the years. "We had to go where the work
was," I replied honestly, "and anyway, if we
hadnt gone we wouldnt have met you."
He smiled and drained the last few drops from his glass.
"Two days ago we were being typical civil servants
in a stuffy city office pushing bits of paper around, and
now - magic. This country is amazing....." |
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He suddenly stopped
mid-sentence and gazed in disbelief at the tray of food
that had just been set down in front of him. "But
theres only three of us," he protested.
Even by generous Ulster standards
this was a big one. Teresa played mother
and handed around the plates. |
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It was all delicious home
-baked bread. There was soda bread, wheaten bread, and
treacle farls. There were all sorts of scones to spread
with jam or cream and Mourne honey. And gallons of hot
tea. |
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It was an hour
later before our three bloated figures rolled out of the
pub. "That was not a meal," Dave gasped,
that was an endurance test. Teresa and I
looked at each other and smiled knowingly.
He still had to face an Ulster Breakfast. |
The car was
low down on its springs as we set off. The roads here are
good and the traffic is light. As we gazed at the passing
landscape of farms and fields it was obvious why Ireland
is known as the land of the forty shades of
green.
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We pulled in to
look at the Carrick-a-rede Rope Bridge. Its a
swinging bridge made of wood and ropes that sways
precariously in the continuous wind of the rugged Antrim
coastline. "Whats it for?" asked Dave as
we got out of the car and collapsed in a heap on the
grass. "Fishermen use it to get over to their salmon
nets," Teresa replied.
"Anyone want to try it?" I looked at the
massive chasm the bridge was spanning, and the long drop
to the bottom and decided to pass on that treat. |
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"Ill have a
go," Dave said, jumping to his feet. He made his way
to the edge and took an experimental step onto the
bridge. It started to creek and groan ominously. He
gripped the rope handrail until his knuckles went white,
and took another shaky step. Then he made his big
mistake. He looked down. A million miles below,
the sea splattered rocks smiled up at him. Fortunately
for Teresas delicate ears, whatever he screamed
next was carried off by the wind in the opposite
direction. He did a quick reverse turn and was back
beside us in five seconds.
"What a hero," I said, "- not." |
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Dunluce Castle was next. The
ancient ruins are spread over an acre of ground and sit
on a cliff edge over one hundred feet above the sea which
surrounds it on three sides. We posed for lots of photos
using the old castle and the rugged coastline as a
beautiful backdrop.
"If that castle could talk," Dave mused. |
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Apparently it
was fought over many times in its past and it is
steeped in myths and legends. On a clear day the castle
looks over an expanse of ocean from here to Donegal and
round to Islay, a view which has remained unchanged
for centuries. |
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Our next ports of call were the
seaside resorts of Portstewart and Portrush, two
picturesque little towns nestling beside each other a few
miles further along the coast.We settled down on a hill
overlooking a sleepy little harbour, and licked our way
through obscene sized ice-cream cones. "Im
glad we did this today," Teresa said, as she wiped a
bit of ice-cream from my nose.
"God, we would have been back in London by
now." Dave shuddered at the thought. We had
flown over to Belfast yesterday morning to go to a
friends wedding in the late afternoon. We should
have flown back this morning. Then we had made an instant
decision to stay another night and show Dave our old neck
of the woods.
"Wed better move on," Teresa said
reluctantly. Dave sighed. "I could stay here for
ever," he said, "just watching the boats
bobbing around in the harbour." I knew what he
meant. Time didnt seem to exist here. |
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Old Bann Bridge, Coleraine
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Mussenden Temple, Downhill,
Castlerock
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We drove past
the New University of Ulster, and through Coleraine
heading towards our hotel at Castlerock, an idyllic,
quiet little village, snugly sitting close to the ruins
of another old castle - Downhill.
Later we took a walk across miles of golden sand and
struggled to the top of the highest sand- hill. It was
well worth it. "Awesome." Dave breathed the
word as we sat and drank in the stunning beauty of the
Barmouth.
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The wide
vista of the blue shimmering Atlantic ocean funnelled
down to a point between two large piers that became the
entrance to the River Bann.
The river lazily meandered its way inland,
zigzagging around wild bird sanctuaries and flowing past
some of Ulsters most breath-taking scenery. The sun
had dropped low in the sky and its evening rays
bathed the landscape with an extra warmth of colour that
made the beauty of the scene so strong it was almost
painful to absorb.
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Dave was still
talking about it hours later when I reached him his first
pint of local Guinness. "What rubbish have I been
drinking in London?" he asked after he had tasted
it.
"Over here they know how to pull a pint," I
said, as we all raised our glasses. "Cheers!"
Dead on cue the pub group started playing and for the
next two hours we sang, danced, ate and drank with an
intensity I thought we had lost ten years ago. |
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"Everyone is
so unbelievably nice" Dave gasped, during a rare
quiet moment. He wiped the sweat from his face. "You
feel you have know them all your life, its -
ahhhh." There was a flurry of bodies as a couple
of his new friends dragged him onto the floor for the
next dance. It was a brilliant end to a perfect day and
it was sheer exhaustion that eventually drove us to our
bedrooms. Teresa and I gazed at the amazing view from our
bedroom window. The sky was a deep navy blue and in the
distance it seemed to merge into the peaceful, still
water of the Atlantic. |
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The dark surface
of the ocean was dotted with flickering lights from a
cluster of fishing boats and way beyond them was the
repetitive blink of a never sleeping lighthouse. "We
must never stay away as long again," Teresa
whispered.
I closed the curtains and in what only seemed to be a few
seconds of eternity I was opening them again to let the
morning sun flood the bedroom.
We went downstairs to meet Dave and to help him through
the last obstacle of his holiday - breakfast.
We had missed it yesterday due to our early start. |
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He was already at
the table sipping a glass of orange juice. "I want
to take my bed home with me," he said, "it was
so comfortable."
"You were sleeping on a feather bed," Teresa
told him. "You realise," I said, "that
because of your bed there are fifty bald chickens running
around outside." We all burst into fits of laughter
when suddenly Dave stopped mid-giggle. It had
arrived. The Ulster fry. It was a large plate smothered
with eggs, sausages, bacon, fried potato bread,
tomatoes.....
"I cant eat this," he pleaded.
"Im a slice of toast person." |
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"Its ok," I
said sympathetically. "Just nibble a few things and
leave the rest." He started into the bacon and ten
minutes later he was the first to finish. He looked
amazed. "How did I do that?" "With the
greatest of pleasure," we replied.
Then the dreaded moment came. It was time to leave for
the airport.
"You know," Dave said as he closed the car
door, "Ive never had such a happy time in all
my life. We must do this again soon." |
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both nodded in agreement. Teresa started the car and I
turned on the radio, just in time to catch the last two
lines of an old local ballad.......... |
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